From the Minoan civilisation’s corset-like garments in 1600 BCE to the Roman strophium, women’s bodies have been shaped by fashion rather than freedom. By the early 20th century, bras replaced corsets, spurred by World War I metal shortages and women demanding mobility. The bra was marketed as liberation, but the design still carried echoes of control.
Did Women Have a Say?
Women wore them, endured them, and hacked them to fit their lives. Yet patents and profits often sat in men’s hands. Mary Phelps Jacob’s 1914 backless bra was a breakthrough, but mass production quickly drowned out female inventors. The industry became a male-led empire, deciding what “support” meant without listening to the bodies wearing it.
Why the Bias Toward Smaller Sizes?
Bras were standardised around a narrow “ideal” bust. Manufacturers catered to smaller sizes, sidelining fuller figures. This bias reflected fashion trends like the boyish flapper look of the 1920s, which erased curves in favour of straight silhouettes. Larger busts were treated as a problem to be contained, not celebrated.
The Struggle for Sexy Bras in Bigger Sizes
For decades, lingerie brands assumed glamour belonged to small busts. Bigger bras were beige, bulky, and purely functional. The message was clear: if you had curves, you didn’t get lace, colour, or confidence. Only recently have inclusive brands begun to challenge this blind spot, though mainstream fashion still drags its heels.
The Metal Problem: Underwires and Injuries
Underwires, thin strips of metal borrowed from corset stays, became standard by the mid-20th century. They promised “support” but delivered injuries when wires snapped through fabric, causing cuts, infections, and even hospital visits. Women were expected to tolerate pain in the name of shape, a silent tax on femininity.
The Rise of the No Bra Movement
The No Bra Movement began in the 1960s feminist revolution, when women rejected oppressive beauty standards. In 1968, activists famously tossed bras into the “Freedom Trash Can” at the Miss America Pageant, symbolising autonomy over their bodies. By the 1970s, braless fashion became a rebellion against sexualisation, with icons like Jane Birkin and Brigitte Bardot leading the way. Later waves of the movement were fuelled by body positivity, the #FreeTheNipple campaign, and social media, which normalised going braless as a choice of empowerment and comfort. Health studies even suggested bras may weaken breast tissue over time, challenging the myth that bras prevent sagging. Today, celebrities and influencers flaunt braless looks, pushing lingerie brands to rethink designs and embrace wireless, body-positive alternatives.
The Policing of Nipples
Even as the no bra movement gained traction, women were, and still are, called out for visible nipples. The sight of a nipple rising under fabric is often labelled “offensive” or “indecent,” while men’s nipples remain socially acceptable. To avoid criticism, women are pressured to wear pasties or nipple covers, reinforcing the idea that their bodies must be hidden or controlled. This double standard exposes the cultural discomfort with female autonomy: a nipple isn’t obscene, but society insists on treating it as scandalous.
Do Bras Prevent Sagging?
One of the most persistent myths is that bras stop breasts from sagging. In reality, bras don’t prevent sagging - ptosis is caused by age, genetics, pregnancy, weight changes, and gravity. Breasts are supported by skin and ligaments, not muscle, so no garment can halt natural changes. Bras provide comfort, shape, and support during movement, but they don’t alter long-term anatomy. Some studies even suggest constant bra use may weaken chest muscles, while others show no difference at all. The truth? Sagging is natural, not a failure of support.
Bras as a Reflection of Power
Bras are more than fabric and wire, they’re cultural battlegrounds. From burning bras in feminist protests to today’s braless revolution, women have fought to reclaim lingerie. The bra’s evolution mirrors society’s shifting views: sometimes celebrated, often constrained, always contested.
Where to Next?
The future lies in inclusive design, body-positive fashion, and safety-first innovation. Women are demanding lingerie that celebrates every shape without sacrificing health.
